I am thinking of fitting a Jib furler say a Holt or Barton around £70 to £75 . I assume the forestay attaches to the hole in the bow plate nearest the bow. My jib has hank pistons to attach to the forestay and I presume thefurler attaches to the hole just behind the forestay and then the top swivel attaches to the Jib halyard , will this work ok . My Seahawk is a Reedcraft ,sail number 269 .
Hi Sea Scouter,
I have a furler system - its the Barton one. Seems to work well. See my post under General Chat "In the water at last" and photos. I found that the hole in the bow fitting was too close to the Forestay for the roller and made an arrangement to move it back a little. Also I put a disk in the top swivel to keep the sail away from the fore-stay. I don't think the Barton system is that expensive, especially if you look out for deals on the internet. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your help and the pics . Can you send any more pics of how you fix the roller drum near the bow plate and is there a wire strop from the drum to the top swivel . I presume the jib halyard is connected to the top swivel and the jib is hanked onto the wire strop .
Sorry, Seascouter, don't have any more pics at the moment, but my sails have a wired luff, (running in the luff edge seam and crimped loops at each end) , which are tied to the sail eyes at the head and foot of the sail with sail twine. As the drum rotates the wire twists and takes the sail with it. There is no hanking on necessary (the sail has no hanks). On larger genny's it's probably not as good as the tube type of furler that some Seahawkers use, but it works fine for the normal jib.
As the swivel is connected to the halyard direct, there is no strop and the drum (on mine) is connected to the bow fitting via a piece of s/s flat bar to bring the drum up off the deck a bit and at the same time stop the drum chassis rotating.
The following Barton Extracts might help: