I have been given a furling jib with a nearly new sail but it is too long. Has anybody raised the forestry higher up the mast, it looks like there is another fitting at the top of the mast but have not lowered the mast to have a look.
I’d avoid that for a couple of reasons. First off the strength of the mast relies on the tension between the lower shrouds and the forestay. If you move where it’s connected then the mast bend changes and you weaken the mast strength. Might be fine, but might break.
Also, a larger foresail puts way more pressure on the bows, and will lead to much greater leaning when you are closehauled.
If I were you, I’d get a bit trimmed off the curling job foil and a bit trimmed off the bottom of the sail. Any decent sailmaker should be able to do that for not too much money, and then you have the right size sail!!
Judging from the photo on your Introduce yourself post, your mast is the standard SSS mast and unless there some customisation has been (your photo doesn't show the top of the mast) it will be the same as that shown here:
The reason I took the photo from the rear is because there are no fittings on the front of the mast.
I'd also back Perry's advice and have the sail trimmed to fit. If you're thinking of converting to a masthead rig then you really do need a mast designed for it. There are one or two owners who have done that, most probably because they had a mast catastrophe and cannibalised one from another boat. Here's one example:
I am also considering to add a jib furling system to my rig. It is a Nemo Wonderfurl TR model (if I can get the last missing pieces, i.e. 4.5 meters foil). It will entail a few modifications. I will have to replace the forstay since it has to be a minimum of 4 mm wire for that furling system. This change I imagine will be fine for the rig. A stronger forstay and one that I can tighten more than the current, will also mean that the other wires can be become more tight. Furhermore, to ensure a suitable angle from halyard to the top swivel, a halyard block is to be added approxitmately 15 cm below the point where the forstay is fixed to the mast. On a fractional rig like the Seahawk, I guess this angle could also be ensured by adding a new fixing point for the forstay approximately 15 cm above the current internal halyardblock on the SSS mast?
Going back to the input from Perry against modifying the fixing point for the forstay, does that also include a minor modification as the one considered here? I guess the new fixing point would be about 10 cm above the current one. I was thinking that a slight increase on the forestay (+ the furling jib system) could be at benefit in terms of the sails that can be fitted. Reading Perry's input, I am now considering if adding a halyard block 10 cm below the current internal block will be a better choice. This is how the right angle from halyard to topswivel is typically ensured.
Okay, so minor modifications are less likely to be a problem than major ones. The aim of the combination of forestay and jib are to bend the mast slightly forward at its centre section so as to give some ‘belly’ to the mainsail.
However, I would point out that with a jib the size of the Seahawk, the main point of furling is to put it away, not to reduce sail. It’s so small that you are v unlikely to use a half rolled jib to reduce sail, so don’t need a foil to keep the luff in shape.
As such, I’m not sure I’d even bother with a foil. You can just use a furler and a wire foresail luff, and that will furl no problem. Then you are just using the forestay to support the mast, not even to hoist the jib on. Look at boats like dart 16 catamarans to see what I mean. Holt and rolston both sell furlers to do that job.
Just this one with a jib pole. We only use the pole when goose winging before the wind. The disc at the top in the other picture is actually a metal ash tray to stop the sail getting wound into the forestay when furling. It didn’t come with the kit.
Your images show up fine on my phone and tablet, which seems to resize them perfectly. However, they are hideously over-sized on my desktop and require a great deal of scrolling around to see what the they are meant to show!
In fact, you posted them three years ago, but then they were posted as file attachments and easy to deal with as one was forced to open them in an image viewer app outside the forum.
I have a half prepared page dating from that time that is almost ready to post on the main site. It was going to cover both furling and reefing systems, but I was waiting for further photographs which I was hoping to get from Brian Johnson.
For those on laptops/desktops I'll repost your photos with the options FLOAT: CENTER and RESIZE: BIG SIZE set. That should make the better suited for all devices.
Sorry Greg I completely forgot to send the images to you! I took these when the mast was down but I think they show how the furler works. The jib is hoisted on a block attached to the top of the foil so no chance of the forestay getting twisted. Note the link line on port side of the bow that stops the furler body from rotating. I also have a couple of images of how we hoisted the boat on to two dumpy bags of corn to remove and treat the keel. Please feel free to move these another section of the forum.
Hi again and thanks for the many useful replies on this topic.
Going back to Perry's note on roller reefing not really being needed for a Seahawk, I think I agree with this without having much experience on the matter. My main objective is to have a roller furling so that it is easy to get the jib in and out + the storage advantage. With this objective I took the chance and bought a nearly complete "Nemo Wonderfurl TR". For new the complete system cost is around 1200 pound and I paid less than 100. However, it may be that the parts are not suitable for a Seahawk? Now I am considering the solution described by Perry and Marsh Marigold. And I am trying to figure out if the pieces I have can be used in this way with a swivel at top and bottom and the sail wire in between. I would think that the drum/swivel at the bottom can be used in such a setup also?
Going back to Perry's note on roller reefing not really being needed for a Seahawk, I think I agree with this without having much experience on the matter. My main objective is to have a roller furling so that it is easy to get the jib in and out + the storage advantage.
Just a minor observation from me on this one! Note that the subject line of the topic includes "jib", not foresail or genoa.
If you have a Reedcraft boat and the standard jib then I would not disagree with you or Perry.
However, many Moore's boats were supplied with a genoa and furling gear. For those boats the ability to reef the genoa is clearly essential.
Thanks for the observation. So fare I only have the jib. But with time and experience, a Genoa might also be part of Totte's inventory. Especially if I end up getting all the pieces for the Wonderfurl.
I didn't buy a new job for my boat - it was a mainsail - but if I did I would only buy from Jeckells! They have the dimensions of all Seahawk sails and make superb quality sails at a very reasonable price. For a new furling sail I would probably buy a genoa so that it could be used to give more drive in light airs. I would also put a couple more eyes on the cabin roof to give different positions for the sheets, depending on how much sail I had unfurled.